post puerto natales

so... a bit latein posting this but Ihave been having technical difficulties. :) No big surprise there!

As I walked to the bus stop in the morning the bitter cold wind cut through my clothing as though I wore none. After a week of being here it still catches me off guard. I am early for the bus in hopes of finding hot chocolate. I hope in vain. It is too early forthis town.

Yesterday I followed the advice of lonely planet and found myself at Patagonia Dulce: apparently the holy Grail of chocolates. I have to say I did enjoy my six dollar hot cocoa but I am not sure it was entirely worthy of it's reputation or its price tag.

On the other hand Torres del Paine is worthy of its price tag. While my time here did not go according to plan it has been a good experience and I know I will return to do a bit more in this region. It is beautiful in a rugged and austere hway, really unparalleled in my experience. Of everywhere I have hiked the wind rivers comes closest in feel if not scenery. There was definitely a moment of severe chill and satisfaction reminiscent of Indian Pass with Kevin and Jack in 1996.

I cannot recall a hike in the States with comparable pain however. Descending from Lago Grey my left knee began to have shooting pain. Depending on my right and recently "rehabilitated" knee more heavily only led to an awareness of my patella slipping off track and beginning a familiar and dreaded grind. Sleep granted me little relief that night as every move I made in my bag woke me up with a startled cry.

In the morning I told Lee and Emma to go ahead and that I would go home early on the boat. I was SO incredibly disappointed that I just sat in despair as they headed down the trail.

I thought about my predicament and decided that as the hike to the next Refugio was easy I should try. I could rest there for another night and possibly make it up to see sunrise on the towers.

The walk across to campo Italiano was beautiful with gently rolling hills and a trail that was smooth and unchallenging. Unless of course every step taken causes pain. It was estimated as a two hour walk but after two hours I was only half way there. I turned around and slowly made my way back to the ferry pick up point, feeling defeated and exhausted when I finally stepped on the ferry to head back to puerto natales on the bus.

However, it was beautiful, that which I saw up close. And I will be able to see Lee and Emma's photos of the areas I only saw from the boat.

As my friends all know, I do like a plan but I think I do fairly well when the plan falls apart. I got to experience a decision point that really was a test of compassion for myself. I could have pushed on but at what cost? I am happy that I turned around. I could have really gotten hurt and then where would I be for the rest of my trip? Now I want to return and do a series of three hikes down here someday.

When I got back to PN I had nowhere to stay. I returned to my hostel limping only to find there were no rooms. I must have looked pretty pathetic because while I was searching for a room on the internet, Omar magically came up with a dorm bed for me. It is always a challenge for me to ask for help. I cling to the illusion that I am self sufficient. So this week was good as I needed to rely heavily on the kindness of strangers.

I am now in the airport at Punta Arenas. There are only two airlines servicing this area. The bus ride over was through a beautiful expanse of nothingness. Starkly beautiful. it felt as though the sky was low to the ground. As we approached a lake I could not determine what was in the lake... Pink plastic buoys or something. I laughed out loud as we got closer and I could see it was flock of flamingos! Shortly after I looked out again to see an ostrich running through the brush. As it was completely unexpected it was quite a treat!

This evening Puerto Varas again, then off to Pucon. I also think I may look into helping/volunteering in the Maccu Piccu clean up work. I think I would like that.


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