grounded in the stars...

There is a valley in central Chile that is  possibly overlooked in the standard travel route. The Elqui Valley is known for everything from incredible desert landscapes, some of the best skies for stargazing and the observatories to back that claim up, UFO sightings, energy vortex and last but not least grape growing. The sun shines hot here, in a manner that makes you feel your bones are bleaching even as your skin is turning brown. And yet it is so comforting like the perfect bath but dry, very dry.

As I traveled through the valley by bike, bus, car and horseback I was amazed that the spring fed rivers could support such an immense grape growing region. Pisco is made here. Many people do not realize that there is a cultural battle happening between Peru and Chile for the right to claim the origination of Pisco, but there is. I, for one, take no side but will enjoy them both.

 It's odd I see so many images I want to capture but they pass fleetingly as I am often in transit when I see them. Instead they must contribute to the feeling I have for a place rather than existing in isolation as photos.

The vineyards roll out across the valley floor but are starting to climb the steep slopes as well. The mountains themselves have little natural vegetation beyond cacti and scrub brush. It looks as though we have brought agriculture to Mars. The hill sides appear to be brown and quite plain until you actually look at them. Closer inspection reveals purples, pinks, orange, peach, yellow and brown swirled together. Somehow the muted colors evoke a nostalgia for a past I never lived.

So the towns are long and skinny along the road etched into the mountainside. Lots of shady trees to help with the heat and the trees contribute to the sensory experience through their coolness, their many shades of green bringing relief to the eye, and their constant rustling soothing the wandering soul. Pisco Elqui was a slice of paradise for me.

When I was staying in La Serena it was raining and there is not much to do on the beach in the rain. I had decided to go to PE for a few days, but needing something to do that day I decided to visit another town in the valley. An hours bus ride brought me to vicuña, a sleepy town with piercingly blue skies, that I explored for about two hours. After lunch I decided to walk to the distillery for a tour. Lonely Planet's aptitude for accurate information is lacking so I was not surprised when my 20 minute walk was 40. Still not seeing the distillery I decided to inquire at the gas station but before I got there a car slowed down and asked why I was walking sling the road, obviously a tourist.

Some conversation resulted in my climbing in the back seat with the kids and spending the day with this sweet but somewhat crazy family.

We visited two other towns, had lunch, went to museums and ate ice cream.  Just another day with the family. It was lovely although I did not get to go on my tour.  They dropped me at my hostel around 9 pm. It was a perfect day, not going according to plan.

Next day I traveled back through the valley  to the town of pisco elqui. I checked in to my hostel, an empty dorm for three, in the middle if an inn of high end adobe casitas. Garden paths led down through the casitas to the pool. Ah pool on a 90 degree day. But the pool could wait.

I explored the tiny town. Musicians plaing in the square could be heard on all six blocks! I found the tour company and booked a 30 km bike ride, the astronomy tour and a horseride. With my time planned out for three days I went into adventure mode. The bike ride was fun, uphill was HARD, the scenery amazing.

On the horse ride my body got to be in adventure mode but my mind could go where it pleased. I started to think about being present ( why be present when you can think about it!)

Reality is the string of sights sounds smells touches and tastes.  How the moment touches the five senses brings us into presence. However this sort of presence ignores the greater whole of the earth and for me it is a challenge to find the balance twixt the two. I strive to be present to my reality whilst realizing that the construct of my reality depends on the well being of the earth as a whole. Can you get so caught up in being present that you ignore responsibilty for the greater good? Sometimes presence makes me forget I have work to do. But maybe moments, hours or six months of presence is restoring me for the work. One little example of where I go given time.

Pisco Elqui was perfect, the people so nice, just enough adventure balanced with rest. Just what I needed to prepare me for four days on a bus.