Sunday, April 18, 2010

borderline

So how was the border?

We arrived on the Peruvian side, stood in line, relinquished Peruvian visas. Walked across into Bolivia.

It was so easy. Another long line where I filled out paperwork, paid money, submitted photo I had taken just in case, showed my ticket out and gave a copy of my passport. There you have it, a few simple steps to being a happy US citizen in Bolivia!!!

Who could know that the return trip would prove more difficult.

Sitting contentedly on my direct bus back to Cusco we stopped for a routine check. Show the nice military man your passport and visa please. Not a problem. Back on the bus.

Exit bus to exit Bolivia. Fairly gruff but a quick process. I ask where I go next and get told "Peru". Not really helpful. Asking a second person yeilded the same answer. Mystified one of our party asked the obvious. where is Peru?I'm sure this is part of immigration's entertainment because they laughed and pointed across a bridge.

I walked across the bridge and it was not obvious where to go. I ask a police officer who takes me, not gently, by my elbow and steers me into the building on my left. It says national police, not immigration.

I am suddenly inside a movie. Concrete room, shuttered window, bare light bulb, one rickety table and two unsmiling officers.

"Tiene drogas?"

Do I have drugs. No, of course not.

They dump my handbag and my daypack out to search my belongings, repeatedly asking about drugs. How did I fall into this reality?

They look at my wallet. Since my wallet was stolen and I left my travel towell somewhere I have been using the mesh towell bag as my wallet. It has two pockets and it closes with a zipper. It's not ideal but it works and I have a wallet at home.

They wave the "wallet" in front of my face yelling because my money is disorganized. I explain slowly in my wonderful Spanish that my wallet was stolen and now this is all I have.

"Why is your money disorganized? Are you on drugs?"

No. All my money for a current country goes in one pocket. The back pocket is a mish mash of currencies.

"then where are your bolivianos?"

Because I am leaving Bolivia, I traded them for soles at the bus station this morning.

"entonces, no drogas?"

No.

"pass"

I start to organize my things.

"hurry! Get out!"

I shove things in my bag and leave, seeing two other girls waiting to go in. I cannot say anything as I am being escorted out.

Into immigration and three minutes later on the bus.

Now as I write this a woman next to me in the airport asks if they did not bring in women police for the search? I think the whole point was pulling in women just to terrorize. Good times for all in the border towns.

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